Chef Fejeran Delivers Yet Another Creative Concept
Frank Fejeran mixes ground meat with caramelized onions in a large plastic container, stirring slowly and adding spices. Sitting near the oven is a tray of bright-orange baby carrots, raw but ready to be roasted. The menu says “tomato braised pork/beef meatballs on creamy polenta,” “roasted baby carrots” and “hummingbird house salad with balsamic-honey vinaigrette.”
Born in California, Fejeran says he always had an interest in cooking. He got his first job when he was fourteen or fifteen, washing dishes and filling in for one of the line chefs who didn’t show up because of a drug problem. After highschool, he went to culinary school in Scottsdale, Arizona, and met Riko Bartolome, his mentor chef, in San Diego.
Fejeran then moved out to Michigan. He worked at Tribute in Farmington Hills from ages 19 to 21.
Perhaps Fejeran’s most prestigious job came after his job at Tribute. Moving to Chicago, he worked at Alinea, a modern restaurant which focuses not only on high-quality food but on it’s avant-garde, creative and artistic food design. Alinea receives the highest rating from the Michelin Guide—three stars. It has been named the best restaurant in America three times. It was the sixth best restaurant in the world when Fejeran worked there.
Fejeran came back to Michigan after working at Alinea. He worked for Chef Tikashi, the owner of The Slurping Turtle, and was the head chef at Raven’s Club for two years. At the end of this two years, he left not only Raven’s Club, but the restaurant business in general; he was tired of the stresses of the restaurant kitchen, and wanted to pursue some of his own business ideas.
Opening in May of 2015, Ricewood was a food truck that sold Pacific island barbecue behind Morgan and York, on Packard. “Ricewood was kind of an anomaly, that was the busiest it could be from day one and every day since then,” Fejeran said. “It was crazy; we were really, really well received.” Ricewood was open every Monday through Friday, from noon until food sold out, offering a simple menu of pork shoulder, brisket and ribs. Each meat came with a dark finadene or gringo sauce on top, and was served in a cardboard bowl with rice and marinated cucumber slices.
Despite Ricewood’s massive success, Fejeran knew by the end of November that it was time to temporarily close down. “Barbecue starts early,” Fejeran said. “Two in the morning, if not earlier. Because of the weather, it’s hard to be outside at two in the morning, barbecuing for ten hours [or] twelve hours.” It was during Ricewood’s hiatus that Fejeran started his most recent business.
Several years ago, Fejeran started making and delivering basic home-cooked dinners to make a little extra cash on the side. He gained a small following, with around twelve families ordering each month.
Using his Ricewood profit as funding, Fejeran decided to make his side job into a business. He set up shop in the small commercial kitchen of the Vineyard Church on Platt Road and began his food delivery service under the name “Hummingbird”. “Hummingbird is just a way to eat food and get your family fed, and have good food and a nice home-cooked meal that tastes good and is fairly good for you but still affordable. That’s really all it is—it’s delivery,” Fejeran said.
Hummingbird has a new menu every week, each time with both a meat option and a vegetarian option; it costs 40 dollars to order for four, and 52 dollars to order for six. People who wish to order can simply call Hummingbird’s number (734-358-8794), and their food will be delivered within an hour of their call.
Hummingbird uses locally-sourced ingredients much of the time, working with a variety of local farms including White Lotus Farms, Black Oak Farms and Guernsey Dairy. At the very least, Fejeran tries to get his products from local vendors in an effort to support local business. “Like these breadcrumbs. You could buy local breadcrumbs maybe, somewhere. But I also don’t get them at, like, GFS [Gordon Food Service]; there’s a local middle eastern market I go to,” Fejeran said.
The purpose of Hummingbird, as Fejeran made sure to point out, is not to act as a replacement for a restaurant, nor even to provide food that is as creative or elegant as restaurant food. “Restaurants are based around food and drinks, alcohol. But that’s not really what they’re selling,” Fejeran said. “What they’re selling is an atmosphere and a location and a feeling. We don’t sell an ambiance, we sell products. We sell convenience. We sell healthy convenience. And that works. People want that.”
Fejeran is already looking to the future; he plans to reopen Ricewood in mid-March, when the weather is a little warmer, but he has no plans of closing Hummingbird anytime soon. He has a third concept going live in a few months, but he says he’s not able to talk about it yet. “We have quite a few concepts that will be going live whenever it works to go live,” Fejeran said. “I always wanted to have a take-out Chinese restaurant. Maybe like two tables, just crappy Chinese food. So who knows. We’ll see. We’ll see what happens.”